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France
2006
On 6th June 1944 2,727
ships sailed to the Normandy coast - on the 23rd June 2006 two car ferries
sailed to the Normandy coast. One from England with three bikers
including an Aussie and a Yank and one from Ireland, full of the Irish battalion.
Day
1
Both groups established their
bridgeheads on French soil at 15:30 at Cherbourg and Caen. The
Sherman tanks (aka Harley-Davidson motorcycles) roll out of Caen to
Honfleur, guided by a new military secret weapon, the GPS navigator.
Many hours later after the H-D navigator got us lost several times, the two groups converge on the sleepy
Chateau
de la Roque, near St Lo. That night became a story in itself as
the boys played liars-dice while camped in the garden being served wine by
the owner in his nightshirt while Len unloaded table lamps, espresso
machines and God know what else from his Sherman tank. Let the good times
roll!
Day
2
Ivor has been keeping a
weather eye on that front - we must out-run the rain. And we do,
this time guided by the TOM TOM GPS we get lost again in a different part
of France. But after switching the bloody things off and using a
map, we fast run it to Chateauroux. We did out run the rain but the
town was full - no problem as we found a 60s drive-in motel about 5k out
of town that served great food, had
some decent wine so we could celebrate - AFTER ALL: we've penetrated France and out-run the
rain.
Day
3
It's raining! Has done
all night and looks well set for the day. Gloomily we set off in a
constant heavy downpour, hearts low - then half an hour later, from out of
the grey comes the sun - fantastic. As we roll-on, the Sherman
breaks down - the gear lever just fell off (see Day 9). The Irish
scrounge the local village and return with a coke can (plus several local
girls, a barrel of wine and some gold coins - but in the spirit of friendship,
we return them).
Coke
can repair finished - we're off, still out-running the rain until Ivor
halts us, looking up at the blackest sky. We put our wet gear on and nine
seconds later the heavens open - thunder, hail, torrents of rain. We
huddle together like penguins in the Antarctic and finally set-off, riding
through some of the heaviest rain I have ever encountered.
Finally
the sun breaks through and we settle in a flea-pit of a Hotel in St
Etienne.
Day
4
Now we're in the sunshine and
finally begin to discover French D roads at their best - on to Avignon, a
pretty place where pigeons crap on bikes better than anywhere. It's
hot down here, in fact it's hot all across France. The Sherman
rumbles on, playing loud music - anyone see that great film Kelly's
Heroes?
Day
5
Now we ride some of the very
best twisty D roads in France, dancing our way to Beziers - a fantastic
day in the saddle. Roads like the D25 to Lodeve and D35 to St Pons
and the D612 to Beziers, write them down, they're worth a visit. The
town itself is, well shall we say, OhKay?
Day
6 & 7
On to Bergerac - some good
stuff here too like the D907 Pons to Lacaune and the D607, D33 and D902
etc etc. The countryside is pretty with lovely villages, chateaus
and Bergerac itself is a lovely town. We stay in the hotel "Le
Family" a charming two star friendly hotel in the middle of
town. It's time to rest, so we stay for two days, drinking the local
wine, playing pool, fishing and having a BBQ from heaven on the riverside.
Oh, and the fishing - did I mention the Yank's Texas wriggler or whatever
he calls his long black thingy he uses as a lure? But it took the finesse
of the Irish to tickle the trout or whatever they were with cunning use of
fly-fishing. Paul caught four fish, each progressively larger until,
for the big one, he jumped in the river to land it (see picture below)
Day
8
A run to Saumur - the roads
here are getting a bit boring but the town is pretty and the Loire
Hotel is a great place - pay the extra and get a room with the river
view. Here we finally drank the massive 3 litre bottle of Bergerac
red wine that Paul had found.
Day
9
Our last full day and we head for Mt Saint Michelle - which is lovely but
what a tourist rip-off and I doubt any of us will be recommending
it. The restaurant "Les Terrasses Poulard" on Mt St
Michelle excelled itself with what we though was probably the worst food,
served in the surliest manner, we have ever experienced and all for €286
Oh, did I mention that the gear lever fell off the other
Sherman tank?
Day
10
Back to our ports
for the return trip. The poor Irish had an 18 hour haul on a
trucker's ferry in front of them, while those heading for Portsmouth on
the fast ferry were there in three and a half hours. Plans
for the next Euro-invasion are already started but that one's not before
the 100th anniversary IOM TT 2007.
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What
nice young men
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And
so well behaved at a BBQ in Bergerac
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Singing
Boy Scouts songs in St Etienne
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And
he's only drinking water!

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And
he's in the water - it's called fishing, apparently!
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You're
never lost with a map
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ET
phoning home
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The start of Day 3

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The
middle of Day 3
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So:
you drink a little...
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you
fish a little...
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and then you crash!
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